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Recently,
C.C.L have been receiving a higher than usual volume of calls from chinchilla
owners wanting to know about transitional introduction. Therefore, we have
reproduced this old article from our Archives for your information.
Transitional Introduction Of
A New Pet
Check out Sue Allen's
experience of introducing a new chinchilla CLICK HERE!!
Many, many times, Roger is asked the question
"What is the best way to introduce a new chinchilla/s to already
established ones?" Another frequently asked question is "How can I
re-introduce pets who have been separated?"
Although we are originally a colony animal a caged
chinchilla will not readily accept a newcomer to their already established
group/family. The older the chinchilla, the more difficult it will be to introduce a
new pet. In the wild, we chinchillas
live in large groups but as we are now in captivity we cannot get away from an
unpleasant situation/newcomer quite as easily so this makes it more difficult
to accept. We need company, that is true
but most people who keep chinchillas have not just pairs, but triplets and
quads. The more of us that you keep, the more challenging the introduction will
be, especially if there is more than one male in the group. The males may fight
fiercely. But DON'T PANIC. Many people who use patience and knowledge find that
their family of chinchillas will get on quite happily after a short while.
Transitional Introduction of new pets to established
ones is easily achieved if the pets in question are opposite sexes. Here are a few guidelines. If you have a female chinchilla who has not
yet reached sexual maturity ( less than three months
of age ) then it is not a good idea to introduce a male of over six
months. Males mature a little later than
the females but at six months are sexually active and a very young female will
not take kindly to his advances. The
best way to proceed is to reverse the situation - introduce a young male to a
female who is at least six months old.
This combination should not take too long to establish. Bear in mind in any introductory scenario
that the new pet will be forced to undergo a pecking order where the
established pet will probably boss her/him around a little bit. This should not
be too serious if you sensibly follow guidelines.
Occasionally you will get a chinchilla who has
extreme behavioural problems and who will not accept
any additions to his/her cage. These types of chinchilla are fortunately quite
rare and need to be your only
chinchilla. I would not normally recommend keeping one chinchilla as we love
company but if your pet is particularly difficult, then rather than risking the
life of another chinchilla you will need to provide him/her company from a
human source only. Do give an introduction time though because we really need
that other chinchilla, we just don't always know it straight off.
When you first get a new chinchilla to join your
established one, keep them in separate cages to begin with but put the cages
next to each other so that the chinnies can get used
to each other's smell etc, but be unable to harm each other. From watching
their reactions towards each other you will get a good idea of when to progress
to the next stage. Next, you should let them out to run on the floor together.
Supervise them closely, there is bound to be a little arguing and the new pet
will probably be quite scared and shriek quite a lot. The defensive urinating
needs to be watched out for as well. Do not panic if they fight, this is quite
natural and should not last long, it is important to allow your pets to
"get on with it" un obstructed. Obviously if
the fighting is severe you will need to step in, but normally this is just an
initial spat whilst the established chinchilla gains hierarchy. Try the
following before the floor introduction.
·
Feed the chinchillas a little chamomile tea ( cooled ) perhaps with a little bit of honey. Administer
this orally via plastic syringe which you can obtain from your vet. Do not use
glass as this can be dangerous. One small syringe full of chamomile and honey
should be adequate to calm the chinchilla.
·
Douse both chinnies in
talcum powder, avoiding orifices. this will make the
chinchillas think that they smell alike.
·
Make sure that there is something on the floor for
the chinchillas to hide in, they need to be able to
escape from each other. A cardboard or plastic tube is perfect. You will
probably find that the newest chinchilla is the one to hide first.
If blood is drawn by the chinchillas fighting, you
must separate them at once as their fighting is becoming serious. Use a
calming preparation such as Chamomile and Oil of Lavender daubed onto the ceilings
of their wooden huts and return them to their separate cages until they are
ready to get along. Normally all that will happen is a chase around the floor
and a lot of noise whilst the pecking order is established, then things should
settle down.
NB: You could house the chinchillas in one cage
whilst introduction is taking place but ensure that the accommodation is large
enough and that they have half each - separated from each other by a piece of
wood or similar. Perhaps swap the chinchillas separated accommodation after a
couple of days so that they get used to each others smell. Ensure they cannot
get to each other to cause harm.
One male chinnie can be
accommodated with numerous females ( the latter will
establish matriarchal status ) I recommend a castrated male in this situation.
It is also possible for two males to live happily together, but if this is the
case...in no instance introduce a solitary female as the males may well go from
being best friends to fighting rather nastily over the female. You could
introduce TWO females at the same time, I have seen
this done quite successfully many times. The males will pick a partner and all
four can live harmoniously. This situation does need supervising closely though
and always follow the above guidelines for introduction no matter how many
chinchillas are involved.
However, two females will usually accept a male ( castrated preferably ) A young male who is not yet
sexually active would be ideal. The two females must be established together
before a male is introduced.
Owners often panic when fur flies during
introduction. In most cases it is only fur and not blood or serious injury. I
re-iterate, if there is danger of serious injury or blood
loss, separate the pets immediately but do not be overly protective.
Watch your pets carefully, allow them to have little spats, only step in if it
looks nasty.
Roger can explain more on this subject to anyone who
requires it. Please telephone him
on: 01752 256053 or send your query with
a s.a.e to Roger Whear,
17 Lambhay Hill,
HELP
REQUIRED
Hi, my name is John Seamons
and I am C.C.L's official photographer. I have also
done a few of the photos on this site. I am also involved with a charity called
Plymouth Pisces which runs a swimming club for people with
disabilities. We hire the Central Park swimming pool in
If anyone has any fund raising ideas please could
they forward them to CCL, who will
then pass them onto me. And if anyone would like to send any donations, please
make cheques payable to Plymouth Pisces
and send them to
Roger Whear, if you call him first he will gladly
provide you with the address. Any help would be greatly appreciated and put to
good use by the club as we always need new equipment.
We have swimming galas against other disabled clubs
with medals for all categories. I myself am disabled so I appreciate the help
given by others.
PLEASE CAN YOU HELP ME TO HELP
OTHERS?
Selecting a Pet
Most importantly, this must be a
harmonious decision reached by all members of a household. If not, animals will
suffer from stress if unwanted and need re-homing. Any creature requires
stability of environment, hence lessening the burden on animal
sanctuaries. Of course, where unforeseen
circumstances arise where owners have no option but to re-home, then animal
rescue services are necessary. Throughout my life I have seen pets discarded,
after both long and short periods, when people/owners have decided that they
are no longer wanted. Some are abandoned most cruelly, some because they have
been deemed unfashionable or following an initial fad. An example of this was
the turtles promoted by various films of the era. People were attracted by the
celluloid projection, not realising the amount of proper care needed by these
creatures, or their growth and aggression (in some cases). Size and longevity
do play an important part in the selection of an animals
for one's lifestyle. Never let a selection be influenced by fashion. But issues that would be most suitable to your home, both internal
and external. Does your accommodation suit whatever pet is selected ? Additionally, do you think you can afford to keep
your chosen pet ? Take into account its
probably lifespan and cost of requisites and food, not least veterinary bills
which may escalate if a pet is taken seriously ill, and insurance costs. Other
items to consider are accommodation fees during holiday periods, and
pet-sitting costs. There is also the initial expense of cages/housing/glass
tanks/atmospheric conditions in the case of exotic animals.
The exercising of some animals requires distance
along with dedication. They cannot comprehend 'time off, or less than a seven
day a week commitment over years. No animal can be left to fend for itself
unless it is in its wild state. The housing of each and every animal must complement
and reflect, as closely as possible, its natural state. Even a spider or any
small insect, left in its natural habitat, would do a certain amount of travelling/hunting/foraging in one day, so containing it in
restricted accommodation would indeed be cruel, perhaps leading to a short
lifespan or incurring illness or detriment to its well-being. To become
conversant with a prospective pet's welfare and proper husbandry, a potential
owner must read, investigate and/or consult a vet or an expert, and buy adequate
housing/caging or other, situated in the correct position to be of benefit to
both the pet's well-being and the owner's convenience. With so many small caged animals of the
indoor variety, it amazes me how some people's ideas evolve, putting them near
or over central heating radiators, open fires, cookers, ranges, televisions,
music centres, boilers or other heat sources. Never,
never do this, as most animals will suffer heatstroke, burning of fur, drying
up of foodstuffs, bedding too warm/hot etc.
As bad are steamy sources, e.g. kitchens,
bathrooms, and saunas or damp areas such as basements, sheds, garages, attics,
neglected rooms and lean-tos. Fundamental reasoning and common sense should
apply at all times together with constant vigilance. If a household contains very small children
then selection of a pet must be carefully considered. Delicate creatures
needing extremely light handling would not be suitable for these little beings.
Children will possibly treat them as cuddly toys, squeezing and tossing them
about and perhaps damaging them to a great degree. So pick robust, friendly
animals.
Elderly members of a household need to be included
in raising a pet. Choose one which needs little handling or one
which can care for itself. Nocturnal or
daytime animals constitute an important choice factor. The former is ideal for
working members of a household, but there is little benefit for small children
who are at home all day, wanting to play with their favourite
pet's).Size does matter, for instance large dogs needing lots of everyday
exercise (52 weeks of the year and living up to 18 years). They also eat large
quantities and are expensive to keep. For instance a Great
Dane. Animals imported from
jungles, swamps, hot damp climates, aquatic types, earth dwellers, rock climbers etc, need specialist attention. Does your
environment cater for such a pet ^Now the world is open to all exotic animals,
in many cases it is a tragedy for some to be taken away and placed into a
captive domestic life. Knowledge of many of these is scarce and care is based
on a trial and error approach, possibly leading to early demise. Splitting colony animals into individuals is,
in my opinion, cruel. These animals rely on others in a group and some males
and females of this type of species mate for life. With some pets an analogy can be made with
flowers: better to look at in a garden than to pick.
Finally, selecting a pet is a serious matter
requiring deep thought. So be very sure.
Chinchilla Chat Line,
Roger Whear,
17, Lambhay Hill,
U.K
Tel: 01752 256053
Roger Whear: - Author/Founder & Administrator of
Chinchilla Chat Line
Smoking
I refer to recent comments by the RSPCA regarding
smoking and domestic pets such as cats and dogs, and the inhalation by these
animals in such small areas of their environment. Although I agree
wholeheartedly with these findings, cats and dogs are mobile within homes and
can, if required, move to another room, finding a source without smoke.
However, a different story exists with regard to caged animals/pets, who are restricted as to area. The ever-increasing
popularity of such pets therefore leads to an escalating problem and dire
consequences. A case in point relates to four pet chinchillas, two of each sex,
accommodated and caged in the owners; lounge, with lots of smoking of both
conventional and other kinds, and smoke filling the room, which is much more
hazardous during the autumn and winter months. One of the female chinchillas
aborted pregnancy twice. I cannot categorically blame smoke inhalation but it
would not have helped. It is common sense to recognise
that bodily these kinds of pets are fractions of humans, so smoking-related
complaints will progress rapidly. So we so-called animal lovers must take
responsibility for our pets' well-being and health. Therefore, take proper care
that our pets are in smoke-free zones.
Caging
As founder/director of the Chinchilla Chat Line I
receive many telephone calls every year. Amongst these calls are numerous
enquiries from distressed owners who have found their favourite
pet hanging upside down by its rear leg. Caught in a mesh wire cage and unable
to dislodge its limb, in some cases the animal has struggled furiously to no
avail and resolve the situation by biting off the trapped leg. This is rare,
however, and broken legs are treated by veterinary practitioners giving owners
three possible options of setting, amputation or euthanasia. Setting can take
up to ten weeks in treatment and costs in the region of £250. Amputation is a
cheaper treatment but impairs the animals' quality of life (a chinchilla's
'power-house' is their rear legs and tail base, which makes them such athletes,
especially in jumping). Because these pets are captive and do
not have to survive in the wild, amputee chinchillas will soon adapt to the
three-legged state.
Euthanasia is a dramatic solution if the creatures
concerned are young, and really (unless unwarranted circumstances such as
poverty or uninsured pets exist) is not an option to be chosen. Mesh-wired
(so-called) chinchilla cages/accommodation is acceptable if completely
furbished with untreated pine (harmless to gnawing creatures) everywhere within
the cage where a chinchilla will put its feet, e.g. shelving, bottom and some
of the sides. The bottom mesh also
presents problems by cutting the under soles of the animals' feet, increased
through their continual jumping down from cage height. Temporary remedies are
thick newspaper, corrugated cardboard or, best of all, cut to size, tongue and
groove pine cladding. The letter should not be glued, thus enabling the owner
to remove it for cleaning purposes. Put it in a receptacle such as a plastic
seed tray (they will bite/gnaw at this item) or, alternatively, a roasting dish
(metal, stainless steel or cheaper, but not a non-stick variety as the coatings
may not be suitable material to be ingested. Fill these repositories with wood
shavings and this will suffice for a week (with two chinchillas sharing a
cage). Manufacturers along with owners
must practice common sense when catering for animals (pets)
Exercise
"I and
John Bower (Veterinary Hospital Group) concur in this: whatever pet, from a
stick insect to a horse, must have a lifestyle to mimic what they would have in
a wild state. Essential to this is what I term 'external exercise'. All should have this experience on a day to
day basis. Even a fly or spider may travel miles during one day, so captive
animals (pets) must have the chance of exercise, not only to improve fitness
but also their
psyche.
Pregnant
animals having exercise will improve their terms and produce healthier
offspring which, after birth, delight in exercising outside the restricted
accommodation and sited in their play environment. Opportunities given to offspring for external
exercising (from practically the minute they are born) makes for a better pet in
later life. Fur-biting and spinning
around in a comer, huddling up in a crouched position, shaking of the head from
side to side, lots of sleeping (unless ill or in advanced pregnancy) or general
lethargy, are all indications of a bored creature which needs the stimulation
of exercise and adventure, so plenty of things to do should be offered within
the exercise areas. For a happier,
healthier pet, I cannot over-recommend external exercise.
Cool, Calm and Comfortable
In hot weather, as recently, all indoor animals
must be kept cool. Use a fan and/or marble/slate on the bottom of a cage for
the pet to lie on and keep cool. Make a box (shallow) with a slate tope,
underneath place an ice-pack (alternate with one in
the fridge). Use a terracotta plant pot
(put in a plastic bag and place in a fridge, again alternate with two pots).
If using this method make
sure the pot is taken out when the coolness has gone. We do not want a cooked
pet, like chicken in a pot! Along with
coolness is quietness. Always place accommodation away from radios, TVs,
heaters. cookers, fridges, washing machines, central
heating boilers, boilers of any kind, electronic gadgets. computers
etc. Never place in damp, moist, steamy, dark, dank, rowdy or sunlit areas.
Comfortable accommodation should include an area to
sleep in: wooden box, cardboard carpet tube (cut to size), log cabin, sisal nest, whatever. A variety of interesting objects
should be placed within the cage to stimulate intelligence. If you have nocturnal pets, do not put them
near pets which are daytime active.
All efforts in keeping pets require:
Consideration
A good diet
Responsibility and
Exercise
Roger Whear
International
Author, Founder
& Administrator
Chinchilla Chat
Line (CCL)
